It was a chance meeting that brought us face to face with Les Bursill, a one-man authority on Sydney's Aboriginal history and anthropology. And we were lucky to have him as our guide to the sacred sites located in the Royal National Park in Sydney. A descendant of the Dharawal community of southern Sydney, Les is a walking encyclopaedia on his area and its unique customs. He is also a seasoned bushwalker as we found out while trying to make way through the thick foliage of the Australian bush. We took with us bottles of water to pour on the awesome engravings to make them visible in the glare of the midday sun, while Les took us on a fascinating journey to the beginning of 'the dreaming'... when Yullangur or the creation serpent first appeared... and how the 'celestial sisters' came to give birth to the first humans and how the early Aborigines carried out their Orca hunts in the Sydney bay area.